Author Topic: Dlink 1402s modifications  (Read 2894 times)

Offline chpalmer

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Dlink 1402s modifications
« on: December 01, 2007, 10:52:45 pm »
I decided to do a little recon on my D-link 1402s Voip phone router to see how possible it would be to fix some of its flaws.

I need to stress that this kind of modification will void your warranty and that you are on your own if you attempt to copy it. This site, its owners and myself shall not be held responsible for your actions. That said...



I actually like this unit. Its audio clarity is very good and I guess I just like how it looks. I have to admit that the reason I bought it was that I wanted a do it all router that would assign DHCP statically and provide a little bit of a firewall for my home network besides the Voip service Im testing. (No Im not giving up my Qwest line, but the voip lines are going to stay around as secondary numbers.)



As of now, Ive given up on its router capabilities. It can only handle a few static assignments and I need more. Otherwise the router functions work OK when the unit works. My original Zonet I had in place is back. Its been pretty solid, and does what I need it to for now. So the Dlink has been set up for Voip only now.

The first thing I discovered with this unit out of the box is that the power supply was not up to the task. It's a space saver "wall wort" 12Volt DC 1.25 amp unit built by Fairway Electronic Company. It drops below 10Volts DC at 1 amp. The router when it resets and registers with your voip service sends a ring signal to the phone(s). When this happens, the router can not get enough current from this supply and it does a half reset.



A flaw of this router is that it must be powered down for enough time for the capacitors (probably a specific one) to discharge otherwise it will not completely reset. When this happens, it will not give out dhcp addresses or aquire one on the wan port. And the VOIP section of the router will not start leaving you with nothing mor than a 4 port switch. If you pull the plug, leave it off for 20 seconds or more. Just make sure the red "Alarm" light flashes as it boots up. The bad power supply made this an issue as the router would continuly restart over and over.

Not being one to give up I decided to try another power supply with the router. The one I had was rated for 12volts dc at 1 amp. It puts out 12volts dc at 1 amp of draw, period. The constant restart issues with the router ceased although if powered down I still must wait for the thing to totally discharge.

The next issue this router has... I cant clone any MAC addresses on the router otherwise voip will not work. Ive confirmed this many times. If you Telnet into the unit and change the units MAC address there, then it will work. I find that this is really unnecessary and just leave it as is.

But the real reason Im getting into this is the heat this thing generates. Im wanting to see what I can do to cool it off. So my experiment begins.


I opened the case to see what I could find out about this thing.



On the left next to the 5 grouped capacitors is a microprocessor chip labled ARM 0446 SAMSUNG S3C2510A01 K6A24. From http://hri.sourceforge.net/hw/smc2804wbr/ (SAMSUNG  S3C2510A01 Samsung's S3C2510A 16/32-bit RISC micro-controller is a cost-effective, high-performance micro-controller solution for Ethernet-based systems, for example, SOHO router, internet gateway, WLAN AP, etc.)

This thing gets HOT! The other components get warm and dont help the situation Im sure but I believe Ive got my target...



I need a Heatsink! How am I going to attach one though? I need to do some research.

Ive chosen an actual CPU heatsink from a Pentium 1 that has long ago been dismantled. See- those extra parts you save can come in handy. Its a Cofan USA unit labled "BlackIce".



The heatsink needs to be massaged a bit to fit but will actually cover four of the chips when its in place. I had to drill a hole to clear a capacitor. Trust me, when drilling through these things use a vice.



A little filing and shaping and it fits like it was meant to be there.



The height will be important also. I got lucky as my heatsink was perfect. I had to do some work on the top of the case but it was just the ridges and a couple of molding leftovers. The case holds the heatsink in place for now with no movement and no bulging up.



In the picture above where the heatsink appears to butt up against a chip, it does and the sink needs to be relieved there near the pins to avoid shorting them out and smoking the router.

When it stops snowing Im going to secure the heatsink to the top with screws. But it does not move at this point and I want to see if I need to do any thing else. Its been up an hour now and I can feel the heat being piped to the top as Id hoped. If its not enough I might do a little more ventilation later.

« Last Edit: February 21, 2008, 10:48:29 pm by chpalmer »

Offline chpalmer

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Re: Dlink 1402/s Experimenting
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2007, 09:00:43 pm »

Someone else with a similar idea...

http://www.reviewdesk.com/insane-router-mod/


 ;) :cpgrin:

Offline dannjr

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Re: D-link 1402/s Experimenting
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2007, 05:31:08 pm »
Yours looks better then his..  :big: you can still close the case right ;D

Is this still working out.. Was wondering if a Heatsink for a memory stick would work.. Its base is a little smaller and mad from copper.. Might even come with a 50,000 hour Fan..

DLinks have always worked well here with the exception of heat and they seem more prone to go bad from surges over other brands. I think in part do to the Cheapo Power supply unit.
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Offline chpalmer

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Re: D-link 1402/s Experimenting
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2007, 07:38:35 pm »

I finally drilled some holes over the heatsink to let some air flow around it. It has always had great voice quality and runs much cooler now.

I just replaced a couple of capacitors in a Linksys gigbit switch that got bumped and made em puffy.

Its got a built in fan that Id like to do without. Too noisy! May be my next project.

 :) :big:

Offline chpalmer

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Re: D-link 1402/s Experimenting
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2008, 09:56:57 pm »
The vent modification


Offline dannjr

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Re: D-link 1402/s Experimenting
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2008, 11:39:09 pm »
You sit at the drill press for awhile.. ;D

Cooling I can see it now a Thermaltake copper cooler with a 1000 rpm quiet fan towering over the top of the router and you rebuilding the box out of a 48 willys jeep utility box or Diamond plate.. I think that be cool.. anyone that bumps it off the counter will need new toes ;D

The Drill holes look nice and uniform Did you make a template...
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Offline chpalmer

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Re: D-link 1402/s Experimenting
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2008, 01:21:23 am »

Thats funny! I had a 48 or so Willys Jeep before I got involved with a woman!  :as:

Not the one Im married to though. My wife hates when I sell my project cars before they are done.

I miss that Willys!

Now if I could just get this Dlink to play nice with the Firewall...  :o